Joined: Sep '09
Location: United States
Age: 39 (M)
Posts: 9
whats up everyone....
ive been checking around the forum and seeing that a lot of people have put up these self imposed challenges, and i figured hey why not give it a shot..
first of all id like to say whats up to every one as im fairly new to this site....my names Jim and im glad to be here...
um basically my challenge is to see how far i can take my bankroll... ive been able to get it way up in the past but the only down side is ill get greedy and play a table that to big for my billfold and lose it all fairly quickly. So basically this challenge is to play slow and steady and see how far i can go.
i will be playing the fallowing structure,
as stated i will be starting out with 5 dollars..
iil be play .01/.02 tables till i get to $35 this part takes the longest!!!!! .02/.05 tables till i get to $75 move down to .01/.02 if i fall below $70 .05/.10 tables till i get to $150 move down to .02/.05 if i fall below $140 .10/.25 tables till i get to $300 move down to .05/.10 if i fall below $275 .25/50 tables till i get to $600 move down to .10/.25 if i fall below $550
and so forth
basically this outline is so i dont blow my bankroll. Ill try to buy in with only 20 big blinds or the minimum...depending on the table...ill stash my chips after hitting 25-30 big blinds...and rebuy back..... i know its slow but its safe... i usually play 7-10 hours a day (after work) and play 2-4+ tables at a time so its not as bad.
so far Ive been playing 2 days and am up to $25.06
Im playing on PokerStars at the moment and my screen name is el duderino0 I play NL Holdem but I make most my money and play mostly on the PL Omaha h/l tables..i only play ring games and Im usually on after 2 pm est (i live in florida)
so hopefully ill see you guys around...ill continue post back at the end of every day with whats going on....
hopefully i can make some big $$$$$
Edited by jhigginson (01 October 2009 @ 21:09 GMT)
Joined: Nov '08
Location: United Kingdom
Age: 47 (M)
Posts: 2194
Hi jhigginson, Welcom to BRM (you'll like it here) Good stratergy you've layed out for your self (sound) If you have done it before then I wish you the best at atchiving the results you want. I am in a similar boat as you I have made money through poker but never had the drive to earn it from the bottom up, I'd normally deposit to play at a level when winning is a payday or bust, then wait till the following week / month to deposit again. BUT I to am building my bankroll with the intention of taking FULL advantage of a great ndb offered on this site........BigBetPoker ofcourse...Ha Ha Ha Ha give it a looksy Best wish's and once again Welcom to BRM................
Joined: May '09
Location: India
Age: 37 (M)
Posts: 4873
going great , you have done the hardest part. now maintain your patience and slowly you will reach your goal. good luck and keep us updated with your bankroll status.
Hey Jim, welcome to BRM and good to see you have set a challenge. I like to follow and read about these threads to see how people do. I see you play NL and Omaha, I have been looking into playing Omaha lately to add to my game so I'll keep checking for some tips/strategies used to play the game. I see you buy in for 20BB and leave around 25 - 30BB, correct me if I'm wrong but is it sss you play? If so post some tips/variances you use for your personal game, always looking for little things to improve my game. Thx and good luck!
Joined: Sep '09
Location: United States
Age: 39 (M)
Posts: 9
not using any software but if you are playing hold em there are a few tips for you.... this is a little strategy thing i used that helped me big time, its for holdem mostly geared towards short stack strategy..witch is what most ppl play.... unless you are rich and can afford to by in with the max every time...but for those of you who buy in w/ the bare min like me this is for us!
THIS IS PRE FLOP
It's important to know which position you are in, since position influences your starting hand selection: the earlier your position, the stronger your hand must be before you get involved in the hand. There's a simple reason: the more opponents you have behind you, the likelier it is that one of them could have a better hand. The 4 positions at a 10-seat table
A table with 10 seats has 4 positions: 3 early, 3 middle, 2 late, and 2 blinds.
i posted 2 charts at the bottom that go with this info....
Dealer 2 late positions 3 middle positions 3 early positions 2 blind positions
If, for example, there are only 9 players at the table, one early position is no longer counted. If there are only 8 players, two early positions are no longer counted and only one early position remains. With 7 players or less there are no early positions.
Fewer players means fewer positions. The early positions drop first, then the middle, etc. And remember: Never play the short stacked against less than 7 opponents. Get up and find another table if there aren't enough other players.
How much should you bet?
As we said, you never call when playing the Short Stack Strategy. When you play, you raise. The only question is, how much? 4 + 1 or all-in
The size of your bet/raise depends on whether or not someone else has already bet. The easiest case is when an opponent bets in front of you, in which case you go all-in. If not, you'll have to do some math. How much do you raise to?
* If no one has raised yet, you raise 4 Big Blinds. Add one Big Blind for every player that has already called. * If an opponent raises before or after you, you go all-in.
Examples
You play NL10 (0.05/0.10). The Big Blind is $0.10.
* If everyone folds in front of you, you raise to $0.40. * If one player calls in front of you, you raise to $0.50. * If three players call in front of you, you raise to $0.70.
It might take some time to figure out how much to bet at the beginning, but you'll get the hang of it soon. Remember, your basic raise is always 4 Big Blinds, plus 1 Big Blind per opponent involved in the hand. If someone raises, you don't have to do any math, you bet it all. Of course, you can only do this if your hand is strong enough.
Situation 1: No one raises in front of you.
If you have a playable hand and no one raises in front of you, you raise to 4 BBs + 1 BB per caller. But what is a playable hand?
Which starting hands do you play?
Whether or not you enter the hand when no one raises in front of you depends on your cards and your position.
When you are in...
Early Position You play...
JJ, QQ, KK, AA, and AK Middle Position
99, TT, JJ, QQ, KK, AA, AQ, and AK Late Position or the Blinds 77, 88, 99,TT, JJ, QQ, KK, AA, KQ, AJ, AQ, and AK
You see which hands to play depending on your position. Note: This chart is used when NO ONE let me repeat myself NO ONE raises in front of you.
* In early position you play: JJ, QQ, KK, AA, and AK. * In middle position you also play: 99, TT, and AQ. * In late position or in a blind position you also play: 77, 88, AJ, and KQ
Stick to this chart. If a hand isn't on here, it's too weak to play. Pay attention to position, as well. Don't play a late position starting hand like 77 when you are in early position. You may remember, you can play weaker hands in late position, and need stronger hands in early position.
You don't need to memorize this chart, you can write it down or download the printable version. Have it handy when you first start playing the SSS.
Download a printable version of the Short Stack Strategy handout including the Starting Hands Chart Examples
Example 1: You are in early position with pocket queens. You raise, as long as no one has raised in front of you. The chart says to play all pairs higher than tens from early position.
Example 2: You are in early position with pocket tens. You fold; you only play pocket pairs higher than the tens from early position.
Example 3: You are in late position with pocket tens. You raise, as long as no one has raised in front of you. You play any pocket pair higher than sixes from later position.
Example 4: You are in middle position with AK. One player has raised in front of you. You look to the chart and see that it can't help you, it's only used for hands in which no one raises in front of you. You will learn how to play when someone raises in front of you in the next chapter. Situation 2: Someone raises before or after you.
The situation changes when one or more opponents show strength by...
* ... raising in front of you. * ... or, reraising behind you.
You will fold most hands to an opponent's raise. If you have a playable hand, there's only one move to make:ALL-IN Which starting hands do you play?
There are few hands you can play when an opponent raises in front of you. The following chart shows you which hands you can go all-in with. When you go all-in with... exactly one opponent raised in front of you. JJ, QQ, KK, AA, and AK more than one opponent raised in front of you. KK and AA an opponent reraised behind you. TT, JJ, QQ, KK, AA, and AK
As you can see, you can play JJ, QQ, KK, AA, and AK when an opponent raises in front of you. If another opponent raises in front of you, you only play pocket kings or pocket aces.
If you've already entered the hand and an opponent raises behind you, you go all-in with TT, JJ, QQ, KK, AA, and AK. Fold any other hand.
THIS IS POST FLOP Be aggressive with a strong pair or better
If you have a jack and another one shows up on the flop, you have a pair. This can be a good hand, but isn't necessarily. if you are playing the Short Stack Strategy there are two types of pairs that interest you: top pairs and overpairs. Top pair means you have a pair made up of one of your hole cards and the highest community card showing.
For example, if you have an ace and a jack, then you have top pair when the highest card on the board is either an ace or a jack.
An overpair is a pocket pair higher than the highest community card.
For example, if you have two aces and there are only undercards on the flop, you have an over pair.
Whenever you have a hand like top pair or an overpair, or anything better, such as three-of-a-kind or a straight, you bet and try to go all-in. There is one restriction: Not every top pair is good enough to play. Your second hole card, or kicker card, MUST be a jack or higher to play top pair. Whether you raised before the flop or not, you bet/raise and try to go all-in with ...
* ... a top pair with a jack or better kicker card. * ... an overpair. * ... any better hand, such as three-of-a-kind, a straight, a flush, etc.
If you raised before the flop, you also play draws
Draws are hands that are incomplete, meaning they could turn into strong hands with the help of another card. Two kinds of draws are interesting when you play the Short Stack Strategy: OESDs and flush draws. An OESD (open ended straight draw) means you have four cards in a row, so that a fifth card on either end of the sequence would give you a straight. For example: 4, 5, 6, 7.
If you have four cards to a straight, but a card is missing from the middle of the sequence, for example 4, 5, 7, 8, you have a gutshot straight draw. This is not a playable draw in the Short Stack Strategy.
It doesn't matter if you are using both of your hole cards and three community cards, or only one hole card and four community cards.
You have a flush draw when you have four cards of the same suit; a fifth card of that suit would give you a flush.
Only play OESDs and flush draws when you raised before the flop. When you do play them, play them like made hands. Bet/Raise and try to go all-in. These draws are worthless if you didn't raise before the flop and should be folded. If you raised before the flop, you play an OESD or flush draw aggressively. Go all-in on the flop if you can. If you didn't raise before the flop, fold.
Remember, your hand becomes worthless if you don't complete your draw by the river. Never bluff against more than one opponent!
If you don't hit a strong hand like top pair or a draw, there is little sense in investing any more money. There are, however, two exceptions:
* If you raised before the flop and are only facing one opponent, you bet. This is a bluff. If your opponent raises you fold, if he calls ... o ... you go all-in on the turn if you hit top pair/overpair or better, or with an OESD or flush draw. o ... or, you check/fold if the turn card doesn't help you. * If the pot is twice the size of your stack at the start of the betting round, you go all-in, no matter what you have and no matter what your opponents do. You don't have to win often for this to be profitable.
How much do you bet?
Now that you know when to bet, the question is: how much?
* If no one has raised, you bet app. 2/3 of the pot. * If this would mean betting more than half your stack, you go all-in. * If someone has already raised and your hand is strong enough to play, you go all-in. * If you bet and someone raises behind you, you go all-in, as long as your hand is strong enough.
The rule says to go all-in when a bet would cost you more than half your stack. To bet 2/3 of the $1.60 pot, you would have to bet about $1. You only have $1.60 left. Your bet would clearly cost more than half your stack, so you go all-in.
thats that ..
i gathered this info from a few different places... it is not my i own, i just wish to share it with you!
as for me been playing omaha hi/low lately... my next post ill give some hi/low tips... maybe some hold em tourney tips to
also im now up to $51.20
Edited by jhigginson (08 October 2009 @ 01:55 GMT)
Joined: May '09
Location: India
Age: 37 (M)
Posts: 4873
nice tip for beginners but i wanna ask one thing the chart you put is for short stack or big stack, don't think you'll last long if you play short stack acc. to that chart.
Joined: Sep '09
Location: United States
Age: 39 (M)
Posts: 9
That chart will work for either, BUT when playing short stack in my expierce you want cards you can buy the pot with, you dont want to play out each hand.. ...... when paying short stack its all or nothing...if i cant see my self playing a hand to the end with the hold cards i got i wont play it....non of this well i got pocket 3 or 5s lets see if i get 3 of a kind... .I also wont waste my blinds on anything..nor will i call out of turn unless I have something nice like KK AA AK maybe even a KQ or AQ but those are still weak..even then i check to see if anyone else has called out of turn...all you want to do is steal blinds and keep buying the pot,,,screw playing hands lol so my fav position to call out of turn is late......cause if only the blinds are in and you have decent cards you can 90% of the time force them to fold...but i mean you better have something to back it up if some one calls...
------------ but yes you are right in the fact that you wouldnt want to call pocket 2s cause the chart says their ok to play in late position.....cause you would go broke quickly if you played 100% accourding to the chart espically short stacked..its just there more for referance....and FYI .....
Edited by jhigginson (08 October 2009 @ 17:13 GMT)
Joined: Sep '09
Location: United States
Age: 39 (M)
Posts: 9
haven't been playing as much up to $63 decided im gonna stay at the tables till i get 20 buy ins then move up and if i fall below 20 for that level ill move down...still at 1/2 cent im gonna start postin my hand stats for the day also...
------------ Omaha Hi/Lo (Real Money):
1999 hands played and saw flop: - 500 times out of 597 while in small blind (84%) - 472 times out of 585 while in big blind (81%) - 439 times out of 817 in other positions (54%) - a total of 1411 times out of 1999 (71%)
Pots won at showdown - 362 out of 509 (71%) Pots won without showdown - 469
------------ actually i read for PLO8 and for PLO you need to have 30-40x BI and even up to 50x at the bigger tables in your BR apposed to the recommended 20x for NLHE so...yeah i guess im changing my strategy for a 3rd time...better safe then sorry right!
Edited by jhigginson (11 October 2009 @ 21:18 GMT)
Joined: Sep '09
Location: United States
Age: 39 (M)
Posts: 9
Google images i dont want to say the site name cause i dont think your supposed to post stuff like that but i just googled poker charts and poker positions..and then clicked on images..hope that helps
Hi Jim, Your blog is very interesting to see if a experienced player can successfully build a bankroll from nothing using the ss-strategy.
Are you still in the challenge or did u go broke after 12 days? Personally I'm not a fan of your strategy. I play 6max with a healthy bankroll. However, for ur challenge the only way in time.
Hope u let me know where u are with the challenge?
Joined: Mar '10
Location: Canada
Age: 36 (M)
Posts: 30
Posted by jhigginson: haven't been playing as much up to $63 decided im gonna stay at the tables till i get 20 buy ins then move up and if i fall below 20 for that level ill move down...still at 1/2 cent im gonna start postin my hand stats for the day also...
------------ Omaha Hi/Lo (Real Money):
1999 hands played and saw flop: - 500 times out of 597 while in small blind (84%) - 472 times out of 585 while in big blind (81%) - 439 times out of 817 in other positions (54%) - a total of 1411 times out of 1999 (71%)
Pots won at showdown - 362 out of 509 (71%) Pots won without showdown - 469
------------ actually i read for PLO8 and for PLO you need to have 30-40x BI and even up to 50x at the bigger tables in your BR apposed to the recommended 20x for NLHE so...yeah i guess im changing my strategy for a 3rd time...better safe then sorry right!
i could be wrong but isnt seeing the flop 71 percent of the time a little much?? maybe playing too many hands. and also never really folding the small blind might get you in trouble after a while with good players
i could be wrong but isnt seeing the flop 71 percent of the time a little much?? maybe playing too many hands. and also never really folding the small blind might get you in trouble after a while with good players
71% is to much. Never seen that kind of stats. However, the 0.01/0.02 table he played likely had a high avg. of players to the flop, too. Beginners that limp and see the flop rather then raise. If the whole table plays the game with such low stakes why not playing nearly any kind of hand from the blinds. 1cent or check and fit or fold post flop. should play better BB stack.
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